Catracha Coffee Company proves that specialty coffee changes farmers’ lives. We’ve been buying from the collective for seven years, and in that time, founder Mayra Orellana-Powell has created a nonprofit and a center for coffee education. All along, the coffee has become more expressive and clear. This year’s coffee comprises a handful of small lots of washed Catuaí that meld effortlessly together. The effect is balanced, lively, and complex—an apt summation of Santa Elena itself, whose sunsets are like light shows flashing above the nearby volcanoes of El Salvador.