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Colombia Antioquia El Peñol

Cooperativa de Antioquia

In northern Colombia, the mountainous terrain stoops low at the last minute to meet the Caribbean. Intense dry seasons give coffee here greater minerality and less pronounced aromatics than coffee from the country’s more famous growing regions in the south. The El Peñol began as a tart, citric cup. But with time, it has softened, becoming earthbound, rich in the caramels of a roasted nut that’s fortunately fallen far from its tree. The steady hands of the farmer and the cook are never far away. Take the cranberry, which like the coffee cherry, begins as a pale orb and turns a crimson red when fully ripe. Sweetness hides in its acidic flesh. But add brown sugar and (in this case) hot water, and the extremes strike a mellifluous chord.

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