Brazil FAF Novo Canaã Reserva
In a part of Brazil once devastated by cattle ranching and coffee cultivation, two farming families—the Croces and the Hamiltons—are spearheading a movement that’s rehabilitating the landscape from the ground up. One of their ventures, Nova Canaã, is a farm on the verge of organic certification. Where synthetic fertilizers once coaxed productivity, shade trees and nitrogen-fixing legumes now replenish the ecosystem. The cherry, delivered to João Hamilton’s land, is sun-dried in a multiphase process. Brazil’s coffees are not known for sweetness or aromatics—nor are Brazil’s naturals revered. Thankfully, the Novo Canaã Reserva is an outlier in every way that counts.